Ok here is what I have, the rear wheel has been removed and I have started to clean the corrosion from the surface, moving slowly. I would like to remove the Flange to replace the rear wheel bearings as well as the flange bearing. I have put a pull handle on the nuts and can not loosen them what so ever. Are these nuts installed with red Locktite or what. Not sure if an impact wrench will do it. Still trying to decide if I will have then powder coated or paint them myself. I will be going Darkside when it goes back together. Any help would be appreciated.

I don't think mine were that hard to come off. Rich/Greazman has a bit more experience on that than me. I would try to spray with penetrating oil and let it sit a couple of days (Break Free, Liquid Wrench, etc...).

C'mon man put some arm into it!!! They are tight and will break loose. Don't put any spray lube on the bolts because you are going to be putting loctite on the bolts and if you oil them it won't stick. I recommend the blue loctite. If you need any help let me know. greazman(Rich)

Picked up a 1/2" impact wrench tonight I think that will break them loose. Pulled the front wheel and removed the rotor and there it was Star head screws, I had the size above and the size below. Picked a set of them as well. Front wheel doesn't look near as bad as the rear wheel. Worked 2 hours last night and only have one side cleaned, not done but cleaned, now the work starts.

Thanks guys I may need more help later.

Hey Riki, Rosco1800 some time back pulled his rotor off to polish his rims and I think he had posted that those screws are a one time use screw. Plus he had several snap off and had to drill them out!!! You may want to ck with Honda,don't forget the loctite!! greazman(Rich)

Exactly! I think it was after they broke he found out they are made to be replaced.

This is where I'm at now, both front and rear wheels removed, break calipers removed as well as the exhaust. Still need to remove the bearings, (they will be replaced) with All Balls bearings. Also need to remove the Final Driven Flange and rubber dampers before sending to powder coating. I talked yesterday with Premier Powder Coating and he said that he would clean them prior to powder coating. Also I will be replacing my valve stems and adding Dyna Beads for balancing. I have no intention in re-using the bearings or the old seals. Any body ahve bearing removal tool that will work on these wheels.

The exhaust I will be painting, I do have a small repair on the header flange, both have a little curvature do to, I guess orver tightening, I did just torque to 20 ft.lb.s, and checked several times after running for a while.
Any suggestions just PM or post. I'm going to Tiny's tomorrow to assist in installation of his block off plates.

Richard

Wow. You are certainly going to have one tight looking bike there, Riki.

As far as the bearings, I thought Greaz just drifted mine out. Seating the new takes a mallet, plus an old socket and extension to seat it.

Well I meet with Mike yesterday and was able to borrow his bearing puller. I started with the rear wheel removing the drive flange, 2 hits with the puller and the flange was out of the wheel, 2 more and the bearings were out of the flange, now just need to press out the sleeve and remove those bearings, not a problem, I proceeded to remove and clean the area in which the rubber dampers sit. Next to the rear wheel bearings, nothing would come close to moving. Moved to the front wheel same thing, no movement. Other that getting out the drive flange bearings, I did get several blood blisters from pinching my hand with the removal tool and a busted knuckle or two. At one time last night I considered using my propane bottle torch to heat the wheel around the outside of the bearing seat. I guess is was a good idea I didn't, when I fired up the torch the o-ring seal was missing and the seal around the threaded adapter caught fire, I was able to get it out, without issue. That idea was set aside for now. I will attempt this again tonight.

Well, thanks to Mike, I now have the bearing all pulled out of the wheels. Tomorrow the powder coaters. Color is undisided, not sure. Mike, I'll get your bearing puller back to you soon.

After removing the wheels to and pulling all the pieces apart for powder coating. I did find where the bolts are a 1 time use if the are damaged, at $3.50 X 18 total this would be my second largest expense not counting the rear wheel replacement. I read several post that stated if the bolts and not damaged and clean up good they could be reused as long as I use red lock tight and re-torque properly. I verified this with the 2 bike shops one of which was a Honda dealer. Inspected all the bolts, none broke of on removal so in this case I consider myself lucky. The rear break stop bolt is recommended to be replaced as well if there were any damage, none that I can see. I will reuse this as well with lock tight.